Going Around

Public Transport

For a real sense of the city, a wander through the tiny side streets, over hump-backed bridges and into pocket-sized piazzas is a must for visitors to Venice. But if time is of the essence, visitors should consider using the extensive network of water buses (vaporetti), operated by Azienda Consorziale Transporti Venezia - ACTV (tel: 0421 5944; website: www.actv.it).

Single tickets are valid for 60 minutes and include one piece of luggage. There is also a 24-hour, a 36-hour and a 72-hour pass, which also include one piece of luggage. Tickets and passes are available for purchase at most landing stations and selected newsagents and should be punched in the machine before boarding. Failure to provide a valid ticket when requested results in a fine, plus the full value of the ticket. Tickets are also valid for ACTV road buses, which operate to Piazzale Roma from Mestre and the airport. ACTV operates a 24-hour service but not on all routes.

Traghetti (public ferries) are traditionally used by locals to cross the Grand Canal (as there are so few bridges) but sadly they are an increasingly rare breed. A poor relation to the gondola, these wooden dinghies nonetheless conjure up some of the romance of old-fashioned Venice. A swift plunge of the oars and the journey is complete but it is cheap and worth it for the chance to see Venice just as Marco Polo might have done. For travellers who cannot afford the expense or do not want to succumb to the cliché of taking a tourist gondola ride, a traghetti is a better option, although standing is de rigueur and the ride an unsteady one, not to be attempted after one too many Bellinis. The traghetti are run by the gondoliers’ co-operative in conjunction with the city council - there are no published times of operation.

Taxis

Water taxis must be the most expensive taxi service in Europe (there is a minimum set charge) and the trip will only be a maximum of seven minutes. A brief trip along the Grand Canal will cost upwards of €60 and on top of this there are surcharges for luggage, extra passengers (over the standard four) and travelling by night.

Water taxis, run by Consorzio Motoscafi Venezia, (tel: (041) 522 2303; website: www.motoscafivenezia.it) can be ordered by telephone but will have a minimum on the clock when they arrive. Stands are located at the station, Piazzale Roma, Rialto, San Marco and the Lido. Official water taxis have a black registration number on a yellow background. Visitors are advised to stay away from illegal operators who charge what they want.

Taxis of the four-wheeled variety only operate between Piazzale Roma and the mainland. Since hailing a taxi can prove difficult, visitors find it easier to call for a pickup from a reputable company, such as Radio Taxi (tel: (041) 936 222). Visitors should beware of unlicensed taxis without the usual sign or meter.

Tipping is expected for both land and water taxis, with approximately 10% the accepted norm.

Gondolas
The gondola is the Venetian equivalent of a limousine. For the ultimate travelling experience, there is nothing like gliding under the Bridge of Sighs, leaning back in plush red velvet seats and listening to the gentle slap of water against the crumbling palazzi walls.

First mentioned in the city’s annals in 1094, there are now just 400 of these sleek, flat-bottomed vessels negotiating the Venetian waters. The traditional cabins that once shielded lascivious English lords and their courtesans from prying eyes were done away with long ago. The gondoliers of today must rely on fine weather and long summer days for their business, which may account for the high cost of the ride. For visitors who baulk at paying the exorbitant prices, the cost can be kept down by doubling up with other sightseers.

All gondolas can carry up to six people and fees for additional services (such as musical accompaniment) should be negotiated before setting off. Gondolas depart from St Mark’s Square, the Rialto, Piazzale Roma and the railway station. Fares are set by a central body called The Ente Gondola (tel: (041) 528 5075; website: www.gondolavenezia.it) and any complaints should be directed there. Bargaining down the price by 10 to 15% is sometimes possible, particularly in shoulder seasons, although this should never be attempted when there is a group of gondoliers gathered together, as this is deemed insulting.