From the pungent fish market to hand-blown glass factories, Venice may not be focused on shopping style but it certainly has some of Italy’s more interesting gifts. Once a trading post of silks and spices, the city’s shops are now filled with carnival masks, Murano crystal and hand-painted fabrics. Given the city’s popularity as a tourist centre, don’t expect to find many bargains.
There is no set shopping district, although most of the fashionable haunts, including Benetton, Max Mara, Sisley and Calvin Klein, are situated on or off the main drag between the train station and St Mark’s Square. As well as the international designers, all of the big Italian names are present (Versace, Armani, Missoni, Gianfranco Ferre and Valentino) as well as a few more unusual clothing lines, such as Emilio Ceccato, Sottoportego di Rialto and San Polo, who specialises in gondoliers’ outfits. Of the carnival masks, some of the best can be found at Emilio Massaro, Calle Vitturi, San Marco, where shoppers can watch them being made.
The islands of Burano (lace) and Murano (glass) are also prime excursions for speciality shoppers. Glass is the most celebrated of the city’s industries. From chandeliers to jewellery, all manner of shapes and objects are reproduced in the delicate colourful glass. Prices vary enormously but tourists should expect to be fleeced in the elegant shops around St Mark’s Square and even on the island of Murano. Carlo Moretti at L’Isola, Campo San Moise, San Marco, and Lucio Bubacco, Calle Rughetta, San Polo, are two of the best designers. Other chic glassware outlets include Ma.Re, XXII Marzo, Markus Art Gallery, Piazza San Marco, and Cesare Toffolo, Bressagio 8/A Murano.
For the ultimate novelty gift, visitors should head for Giacomo Rizzo, Calle San Giovanni Crisostomo, Cannaregio, where there is a selection of local produce, including gondola-shaped pasta. Countless outlets around Venice cater for those with a penchant for overpriced and poor quality art, while there are some hidden gems, such as Galleria D’Arte L’Occhio, Dorsoduro 181, with large prints and originals by innovative Italian artists on sale. Papier mâché masks can be bought all over Venice with high quality masks offered by Papier Mâché, Calle Lunga San Maria Formosa and La Bottega Dei Mascareri, San Polo (Rialto).
Of the markets in Venice, the fish market (open Tuesday to Saturday 0800-1200) is the most memorable. Tucked away under the arches alongside the Rialto Bridge, visitors should aim to catch it in the early morning, when the dawn mists rise off the lagoon and piles of shimmering fish glisten in the sunlight. Dedicated bargain-hunters should also look out for the flea market, which appears infrequently in the Campo San Maurizio.
Food shops in Venice often close on a Wednesday afternoon and many gift and clothes boutiques stay shut on Monday morning. In general, shops are open 0900-1930, with many smaller shops closing between 1300 and 1600. Sales tax is 12 to14% depending on the value of the goods purchased. Non-EU citizens should retain receipts for goods and then reclaim their VAT (IVA) at either Venice’s main airport or at nearby Treviso Airport. Global Refund Italia (tel: (0331) 283 555; website: www.globalrefund.com) provides further information.
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